

If you see a wavy section in the braking measure, you are not holding the brakes at a constant pressure. The steeper the line, the harder you are braking. Were your braking at maximum force (how sharply the graph drops)? From beginning of braking to the end, you want to see a relatively straight line. Where did you begin braking (where the graph starts to drop)? Did you slow down sooner or later into the corner? Could you have pushed the braking zone deeper into the corner? Since most time is lost in the braking phase, note what is happening during that period. Where were you in the turn? Best to focus on areas where you lost or gained time. You can compare that point on the graphs to your position on track. How sharply the rise and fall and for how long. You can see where the graphs rise and fall compared to each other. Did your slower lap have you brake earlier and get back on throttle later or what ever.

The graphs are in sync with each other, so you can look on the measures and see what you did. In the time bar, you will see where you gained or lost time. Toggle between distance and time, you want to compare using distance on the speed and rpm, the time bar will appear at the bottom between your measures and laps when you select another lap. When choosing a lap to compare it to, look at the lap list and find a group of laps that have a similar lap time, but slower than your fastest lap. It will be checked at the bottom of the screen. The default is to display your fastest lap. On your measures graphs, select GPS Speed and RPM. Uncheck the first few laps of the session, as your tires are cold and the data will not compare well.

Likewise, the optimal line may shift, for example as rubber gets laid down throughout the weekend. For example, it may be impossible to get near your ‘best lap’ if the track is dirty, colder, etc. One last thing to be wary of is getting yourself in a tail-chasing loop with data (especially when comparing to your own data), because conditions are always changing.

#ADD GOOGLE MAP TO RACERENDER DRIVER#
The ‘fix’ depends on the ‘why’ for example, you educate the new guy, or you adjust the driver’s goals/priorities, or you use the data to show the driver they need to adjust their interpretation of where they are on track, or you tweak the kart setup (maybe based on the fast guy’s setup). know what to do, but can’t physically do it a max speed with the current chassis setup (or tire condition, or track condition, or ?). their vision/feel is telling them they are in a different position on the track than they really are… they ‘think’ they are actually driving the same line as the ‘fast’ guy.
